Tag Archives: Portugal

Silence of the Monks

Monasteries and hermitages, a faint silhouette in a shimmering light. As we arrive by car, then foot, or by tortuous road, the outline thickens against the ochre stone and cliffs. They loom as minor fortresses, angled like a prism, slim … Continue reading

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She Plays Still

Her bright caftan flows around her body seated in the middle of a crowd.  Her feet in jaunty sandals still exposed. Her tune – not the drama of fado, simplyher breath, her face, the simple but brightmelancholy of her melodica.  She has known … Continue reading

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Black Pork Cheeks, Fries, Political Football

We were winding around the margins of a small village in the margins of Portugal, looking for a late Sunday night dinner.  Earlier there had been sun-drenchedempty alleys…now a traditional room, wooden sideboards with wine glass on crocheted lace. White tablecloths layered … Continue reading

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Beyond the Green Azores Garden

Some might see the Azores, islands aboriginal and tending back to pasture green, as a perfect chance to return to the garden.   The undeniable lushness, the backing track of cooing doves, the garden both arid for grapes and tropical for papayas.   … Continue reading

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Porto, with Love and Squalor

Historic Porto, on the Portuguese river Douro, is clustered with townhouses dressed up in patterned, colored tile.   They are stacked up on the steep hills, perched beside each other, faces looking out over the river as if waiting, watching for … Continue reading

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