Monthly Archives: July 2018

Ring Them Dubrovnik Bells

In the ’70s my parents had Liza Minnelli on heavy rotation, and that’s Dubrovnik first lodged in my head.  Across all that time, Dubrovnik – exotic and homely, worldly and worldweary, embedded with lessons of travel – has stayed with … Continue reading

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Serbian Tempers

I thought it was gauche, unseemly at first to vacation on a land of recent wars. Yugoslavia fell apart, was tragic, bloody and rife with hatreds in the 90s. But if we avoided every piece of land soaked in blood, … Continue reading

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Foodie Talk in Belgrade

Belgrade. Food is the easiest way of entering a culture I don’t know and haven’t nailed yet. It’s a language that crosses borders. The fruit seller in the little neighborhood market knew from my face that he had the most … Continue reading

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From Sea Urchin to Craggy Mountain

Not content to merely look at the imposing Montenegrin mountains, I had to meander three hours on switchback and winding roads to Zabljak, an enclave of summer sports that required down vests and leggings. I’d just gotten an understanding of … Continue reading

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Montenegro, What’s in a Name?

My grandmother, who spent her widowhood taking cruises, would bring us back dolls from her exotic travels. I was happy to see one of the pairs – a man with a red vest and thick mustache, his wife in an … Continue reading

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What France Brings to the Table

That French people come together on a hot summer afternoon to eat a ripe meal with their average fellow mortals – that makes me love the French.  For what France brings to the table in the family of nations IS … Continue reading

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